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Sunday, September 4, 2011

Obsessively staring at the back of everyone's jeans.

Dear readers,

It's the end of Day 1 of the jeans construction period - and I've made serious progress  -   and some decisions:

1) I finished the front pockets - I used a twin jeans needle to topstitch - and I'm fairly happy with how these came out.


2)  I finished the zipper - I used both JStern's blog but mostly relied on the clear directions and I am happy with how the zipper turned out.
3)  I'm not sure I'm happy with how the inner front crotch below the zipper turned out - I topstitched it after securing it to be well-finished in the front, per the directions - I believe I altered the front crotch curve.  The picture below depicts where the curve should be (the top scissors) versus where the crotch seam is now due to the topstitching (the bottom scalpel seam ripper).  I am thinking tonight about whether I should redo this curve.

4) I finshed the back flat-felled crotch curve seam. Jennifer's directions call only for the yoke to be flat-felled but I went ahead and did a 3/4 flat felled on the curve seam also (the directions called for 1/2 seam) and again, we shall see how this turns out.  I originally very much disliked the flat felled construction but after a night at the movies obsessively staring at the back of everyone's jeans I've determined it's not so bad.  And, because of this particular denim - I don't believe I can tear out the seam without disturbing the denim (little white threads have begun showing up where I did re-do a portion of the flat-felled seam).

5) Based on my failure in the flat-felled seam area - I've now determined to put in 3/4" seams versus 1/2 (since I've lost weight and the muslin was a bit looser) and NOT flat-fell but to top stitch with the dual needle on the side seam and inseam.  (J. Brand jeans does this).

6)  Here is a depiction of a 3.5" zipper I bought from Jennifer at ASN (actually I bought five!).   It's a YKK zipper, excellent for jeans and reputed (I cannot yet verify) to be environmentally conscious.  I'll investigate that further.
More on the history of jeans to follow - I merely wanted to give everyone an update on the progress.   I did note my London "Hudson" jeans have a "Made in Los Angeles" tab.

Tomorrow:  Sewing inseam and outer seam; construction of back pockets on the jeans, and waistband.  Monday:  Rivets, buttons and hems!  Jeans Ho!


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