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Saturday, September 3, 2011

Considering Jeans.

Dear readers,

I'm in the middle of making a great pair of jeans; and in doing so, I am taking my time (gasp!).  Yes, it's true - I'm not rushing to get through!


I said I've never make jeans because I love high end RTW jeans and have quite a few pairs.  But, as they say, never say never!  I'm doing it after taking J. Stern's Jeans Fit class at the ASG and loving it.   What a fun project.  Since I'm taking my time I'm going to do a series of posts about my trials and tribulations - and about making choices.  Once you have your muslin fitting (the stage I'm at) it's all about making choices.



Now, that said, I've lost 8 pounds since the muslin fitting (I'm not traveling for work and have cut out beans (lectins), wheat and sugar for the most part.  So, I am proposing a few new techniques in the form of construction choices:



First, deciding whether to flat fell the outseams and inseams (the yoke is called for to be felled in J. Stern's jeans pattern and is a classic technique used in jeans).

My favorite jeans are boot cut Hudson jeans.  As you can see here the outseams are topstitched rather than flat-felled, and the entire inseams are flat-felled.



 Here is a pair of skinny jeans -  rock and republic - although their crotch line is flat-felled - their inseams are not flat-felled.  Also, notice that the outseams are flat-felled at what looks to be 1/2 inch rather than the standard 3/4 inch.

 Sorry about the open crotch construction shots - this isn't normally a "dirty" blog:)

My thought is to flat-fell the inseam and crotch area and consider (based on fit) whether to do the outseams in a full 3/4 inch flat-fell seamed.  I am concerned that I've lost weight and that my jeans denim (dark and pictured below) has more than the 1-2% stretch recommended for this pattern.  The roll was unmarked as to lycra percentage when I bought it.

Another choice which must be made is what color thread to top-stitch and whether to use a pattern or embroidery on the pockets:

Hudson Jeans:  no pattern
Rock and republic:  Embroidery and use of matching thread to topstitch:


Two sewing bloggers have done amazing pockets - check them out:

1)  Katy did an unique "medical inspired" pocket  HERE at the most Awesome Pocket ever!
2)  Dawn did an wonderful embroidered pocket  - I couldn't find the pictures on her blog, Two One Two Off, but have put the link to the pattern review (she and Katy did the Jalie Jeans pattern 2708) HERE.

Since the jeans are dark I'm thinking of topstitching with a medium jeans blue thread.  (J. thinks this is a good idea as my prior attempts at topstitching have been iffy).  I have bought a dual jeans needle.
 I may put a pattern on the pockets, below these are my tests on the jeans fabric I bought:
 I really like the geometric design:
And, the wave:

By the way, if you'd like some pictures of other jeans, please comment - I do have a wide variety to photograph in my arsenal (levi's, true religion, J-brand, etc.).

Today - I'm doing pockets and the zipper.  Tomorrow's post will be about the history of jeans (and the rise of high-end jeans manufactured in Los Angeles).

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