Monday, September 5, 2011

Completed: First Pair of Jeans, JStern 0037 (or Self-Stitched Jeans, the LA Way)

Dear readers!

Completed.  My first pair of jeans, Jennifer Stern Designs No. 0037.

Well, almost - I didn't put the jeans button fly, pocket buttons or the rivets  on (yet). 

MNBarb from Pattern Review (message board discussion here) probably provided one of the best link for jeans buttons - I'm going to order them from this ebay seller - Dimebuttons - link is Here.  Apparently, since LA is the hub (reputedly 80% of the high end jeans are designed here) - I should be able to buy some fantastic supplies; I need to hunt some down stat!

For more information on the high ends jeans manufacturing in Los Angeles - check out this LA Times Article, "Premium Jeans the Los Angeles Way."   One of the key aspects of this business is that LA manufacturers can take orders as late as 2:00 pm and have them out by 5:00 pm.  Wow!  According to research, wholesale denim (high end) can cost anywhere from 12.00 a yard to 25.00 a yard.  My denim was 6.00 a yard:)  I am going to check out sources for us readers, my recollection is that Mood has some good denim.  

Above is a close up - I do need to work on my execution skills.  I made these in 6.00 dark denim for a boot cut.  I lost 10 pounds since my muslin fittting so instead of 1/2" inseams, outseams and crotch curve - I cut 3/4".  Which worked out well and is still a bit loose (although you cannot tell from the pictures).  I only felled the back crotch curve and the yoke (and do need to work on those skills).  Also I pulled out the wonder tape at the crotch and   redid that topstitching so until I wash them they appear a little gunky.  By the way the fly is absolutely flat - but without a button it's pulling a little with belt.

On the others I used a denim double needle to simulate the felling.  However, I don't recommend the use of the denim double needle.  I made a mistake and in pulling up the stitches cut a hole in the inseam - I took up the right leg 1/4" and am experience some pulling (not evident in the pictures) on that side but I can live with that.  These jeans need a good wash - so I can get off all the tiny threads!

I am particularly pleased with the back - I place the decoratively stitched pockets once the jeans were assembled (the directions called for them to be done before the inseams and outseams are complete) - and placed the pockets 1 down near the middle of the back and sloped it down to 1 1/4".  On the I also slated the pockets starting from 1" from the back middle crotch curve to 1 1/2" as to go down.

Another essential tool is an awl which sewing.  Really critical.  I am working and made some great progress on my topstitching!  I am definitely making these again and will use a contrast thread most probably next time - and higher end denim (and maybe corduroy).  I'd also like to make a wide leg version ala Hudson Gwen jeans pictured here.

I have written a Pattern Review here for more detailed information.

The end.

P.S.  After reviewing the pictures - I am definitely going to switch from a YKK Jeans Zipper 3.5" to a 5".

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